Cat behavior consultant and Yahoo.com contributor Pam Johnson-Bennett is arguably the most prolific and best selling author of books about cat behavior; her latest is “Starting from Scratch: How to Correct Behavior Problems in Your Adult Cat” (Penguin Books, New York, NY, 2007: $15). Johnson-Bennett, who is in Nashville, answers these reader questions:

            Q: My son in Montana tells me about a problem with his kitty which he adopted from the humane society when she was six-weeks old. She’s now about five months old, and sucks on her own nipples at night. Moms are supposed to have all the answer, but I don’t. Is there a cure for this?  K. K., North Rose, NY

            A: Johnson-Bennett has an answer – not so much because she’s a mom, but because she’s certified by the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants as a cat behavior consultant. “This sort of sucking usually occurs when kittens were weaned too early or too abruptly,” she says. “Cats are very ritualistic about when they do things. So it may be predictable as to when the kitten might suck. If it’s possible, use an interactive toy (such as fishing pole-type toy with feathers or fabric) and pre-empt the sucking activity with confidence building play. The play is fun, but acting like the great predator to catch the toy is also the kind of confidence builder this kitty needs. Otherwise just interrupt the sucking by gently repositioning the kitten. You don’t want to give the kitten a lot of attention for this – or she could be reinforced inadvertently and continue to periodically suck for attention. Over time, with many kittens, as they become more confident and mature the behavior goes away.”

Pam Johnson-Bennett

            Q: Our five-year old spayed cat has been urinating all over our house for six months, missing all three boxes. We have two other cats which we’ve had for about three years, but this kitty doesn’t get along with the female. We think this is the problem. What do you think?  R. H., Las Vegas, NV

            A: Johnson-Bennett says that you are probably correct about your guess that the issue is likely a personality clash. Still, to insure that something medical isn’t a contributing factor, visit your veterinarian.

            “Make sure you do have at least three litter boxes, but location is also important,” she adds. “The boxes need to be scattered in different places around the house. Look at where the cat is eliminating, and consider why the cat may be eliminating at that spot. Does he feel threatened to go toward certain places in the house by another cat? Give all cats places to get away from one another, think vertically – set up cat beds on window ledges and in bookshelves.” Of course, keeping the boxes immaculately clean will help, as will cleaning up accidents with an odor neutralizer. Plug in Feliway diffusers (a stress busting copy of a calming pheromone which diffuses into the air).

            Johnson-Bennett adds, “Doing all the above is important – but the only way to really resolve the issue is to change the attitude the two cats apparently have about one another. Give them a reason to like one another In “Starting from Scratch: How to Correct Behavior Problems in Your Adult Cat,” there’s lots of information about clicker training. Your cat will identify the clicker with something positive, and it’s fun. Or simply, bribe with treats – for the two seconds the disagreeing cats are fine with one another offer really good treats. Over time, they will learn they only receive these treats when their newfound friend is nearby.”

            Q: I took procession of two female cats in January, 2005. Two years later, I took two more cats. After nine months, the younger of the first females is constantly fighting with the male. Her total personality has changed and now she’s indifferent to me and taken to hiding on the lower level of my house. Is there anything I can do?  Should I just find another home for the second pair of cats? H. I., St. John’s, Newfoundland/Labrador, Canada

            A: “Sometimes, in cats, hiding may be a symptom of illness, and so might any personality change,” says Johnson-Bennett. “Your first course of action is to definitely see your vet.”

            She continues, “In most cases, introductions really need to be very gradual to succeed. Regardless of how the cats were originally introduced, start all over – as if they’ve never met. Separate the cats not getting along. After at least a few weeks of seclusion to cool everyone down, gradually begin to introduce them. And I mean very gradually. Open the door for a split second and deliver a great treat that they only receive when the other cats are in view. Also, blanket the house with Feliway (a stress busting copy of a calming pheromone which diffuses into the air).”

            For more on cats in multi cat homes, check out Johnson-Bennett’s, “Cat vs. Cat” (Penguin Books, New York, NY, 2004; $15). You may consider additional assistance from a feline behavior consultant (www.iaabc.org) or veterinary behaviorist (www.dacvb.org).

            Q: I adopted a kitten who drags around a black sock, and loves playing fetch with it. She even recognizes the word sock and begins to look for it when I ask her where it is. Lately, however, she runs to the sock, and then dunks it in her water bowl before she returns to me. Needless to say, the game ends there. Do you have any advice?  J. R., Louisville, KY

            A: Johnson-Bennett explains, “Very special toys are often brought to where the food and/or water dishes are. Also, some cats just like to dip or drop toys into the water bowl. It’s all a part of the game. Pick up the water dish before you play. And, over time, this habit should go away. Meanwhile, you can continue your game.”

            (More on Pam Johnson-Bennett, and how you can get help for your cat at www.catbehaviorassociates.com.)

                                                                        ©Steve Dale, Tribune Media Services